The Caterer – Hard shell: Coworth Park’s Adam Smit…

At Coworth Park, Adam Smith makes the most of ingredients like cock crabs, using the white meat in a pretty as a picture tartlet on a tasting menu, and the brown meat and shell in a hearty bisque fit for the brasserie. Michael Raffael reports

At Coworth Park in Ascot, Berkshire, executive Adam Smith buys the largest crabs he can find. The white meat is for a caviar starter in Restaurant Coworth Park, and the shell and the soft meat are the basis of a bisque, served in the Barn. Because one dish is overtly luxurious and the other rustic doesn’t mean that one tastes better or requires less skill. They answer to different meal occasions: one puts delicacy and finesse on the customer’s plate, the other is a classic shellfish soup given a modernist tweak.

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